Alfa Romeo 156 Brake Replacement

The procedure below was written up for a 1998 2.0 Twinspark with vented front discs but should be the same for all 156 models. The shape of the pads will differ between vented and solid discs at the front. Later models have larger rear discs and therefore different pads. It should not matter if we are talking standard brakes with normal or drilled/grooved discs with high-speed road pads - the process is the same. The only difference is that some front pads don’t have the wear indicator so you will need to tie the cable back out of the way if not required.

I’ve written this in the sequence I replaced my brakes. This was to do the fronts first, then the rears and finally to bleed of the system completely to change the fluid. Remember your new brakes will need to be “Bedded in”. This means not using the brakes hard for around 100 miles or following the recommendations supplied with the pads. High performance pads often need a special method. Also bedding in new pads on old discs might take a bit longer as they need to “wear” to fit the old disc shape. As with all major work like this take your time as you will want these to work properly afterwards. Its no use realising you’ve forgotten to do something as you hit the brakes for the first time ....

When working under a car, make sure it is supported securely and do not rely on the jack provided by the manufacturer. Use axles stands under appropriate parts of the car to support it properly.

FRONT PADS
Clean up the caliper of loose dirt, etc. Push/pull/lever pads to retract piston. If you are changing the discs, then a little brute force with a wide screw driver will probably not come amiss, but if you are keeping the discs, you may want to be a little more careful. Pushing the piston back will displace the brake fluid, so it has to go somewhere. You can loosen the bleed nipple to do this (make sure brake fluid is caught through pipe or clean rags). KEEP BRAKE FLUID AWAY FROM PAINTWORK. Tighten bleed nipple after to avoid air getting in. Alternative is to push fluid back into system but check level in master cylinder and take action if gets too high. If this proves difficult, wait until caliper is off. You can then use a G-clamp or similar, or like me, just use the narrow wooden handle of a hammer.
Remove pad spring (1).
Disconnect brake pad wear indicator (2) (if fitted)
Remove covers from ends of caliper mounting bolts (not shown in the diagram on the right, but see 3a in large picture on page 2). Undo the mounting bolts 3a with 7mm hex key.
Lift off caliper and remove pads (4).
DO NOT LET CALIPERS DANGLE & PUT STRAIN ON HOSES!
Inner pad has a spring clip mounting that fits into piston. Clean up the caliper as much as possible, checking piston gaiter for holes or perishing. Replace if necessary as this stops dirt and water getting into caliper and causing corrosion/wear. Make sure piston is pushed fully back and insert new pads into caliper, clipping inner pad into piston. Copperslip the pad backs as you replace them, as well the edges where they sit on the caliper. If you are changing discs, move to next section otherwise replace caliper and refit hex bolts. Replace pad spring and reconnect pad wear indicator (if fitted).
Repeat on other side.
Hex bolts (3a) torque to 4.8-5.2 Nm.

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